You may or may not be interested to hear that I took your warning to heart and I’m now planning on using an actual DC power supply, coupled with either a resistive or inductive ballast which will also be designed for that purpose.
I’m sure the original plan is easily workable for someone with training or education, but for an amateur, it was too far outside the box to find reliable information and feel confident in it
Well now you have to
Caution noted, I appreciate the effort either way
After reading more, it seems like I’m simply looking for a choke that limits current to 1ish amps
I’ll probably be cranking up the current after I get it working, but this is a second step from the light bulb
This is, hopefully, going to be functioning as a current- limiting ballast for a solid state tesla coil. So I need the 1.1A it draws, but not the motor.
I just wasn’t sure if that 1.1A would stay constant if it was just the primary coil, without the motor.
I agree it’s a weird question, but it’s because the instructions I’m following are very vague about what to use as a ballast. The guy says to test the circuit with an incandescent bulb, then use a hair dryer, toaster, or other household implement that draws a couple/few amps. I’m trying to figure out the bare minimum of components from a device that will still draw current
The only name for them
The withdrawal from Afghanistan is the the most genuine “the buck stops here”, that I can remember. He ripped off the bandaid and it was the right call
You’re looking for your car, but you’re all turned around.
And if for some reason, in your frontier scenario, you have plywood and bracing material, you could go with a rammed earth structure!
I just learned about rammed earth and got a few books about it, it’s so fucking cool. I want to build a house with it now, so my great great great great great grandkids can inherit it
I’m not proud of it, but I got like six little, ~2", brass-plated L-brackets from home depot and attached them along the long sides.
It’s not ideal because TECHNICALLY wood movement could be an issue, but movement with the grain is minimal, and I needed to just get the thing done so I risked it. No issues yet and it has been in my basement (which has pretty significant humidity swings) for probably a year now.
Also, but a dumb question, I reached this exact point in the build, when I had a frame and a top and was like…well now what?
I DRANK EVERY DAY FOR YEARS BECAUSE I WAS UNHAPPY WITH MYSELF AND MY LIFE, THEN I HIT ROCK BOTTOM, BUCKLED DOWN, MADE SOME NECESSARY FUCKN CHANGES, BEEN SOBER FIVE YEARS, AND NOW I’M HAPPILY MARRIED WITH A BABY BOY IN A BEAUTIFUL HOUSE
LIFE IS FUCKING GOOD
I thought the 70% was recommended because it helps maintain membrane fluidity or something like that
I just had a thought, if I’ve got a laptop charger or similar brick that supplies 5A DC, do you think there’s any reason that wouldn’t work?
Okay, it sounds like we’re more or less on the same page and that this is more of a workaround to achieve a certain amount of amperage, but in an uncommon way, that leaves a lot up to the imagination (introducing a bit of risk)
A solid state tesla coil. It’s needed to limit current, and is wired in series with a rectifier to turn 120V AC into stable DC
Its purpose is current-limiting
https://www.instructables.com/Simplest-POWERFUL-Solid-State-Tesla-Coil-SSTC/
I’m the middle of reading your comment I realized what I did wrong when making it in the breadboard.
So I got the switch and parallel LEDs working, but the single LED connected directly to positive wouldn’t light. The resistor and LED made a loop back onto the same positive side of the breadboard, so the current had no reason to flow through them.
Something like this?
Also, are there any glaring issues with doing it like this?
Yep, the power source is a 7.5V wall wart
I’m very confused now