Seniors are quite expensive in terms of vet bills so definitely factor in costs. But they’re often chill easygoing lovebugs that will cuddle. If you can afford it and know how to recognise when they need vet care they’re amazing pets.
With adults their personalities are already developed so you can have an idea of who you’re adopting (though they may not shine while stressed in a shelter).
With kittens you will need two, otherwise you’ll have a crazy bored destructive animal that doesn’t properly know how to behave, ie. playing too roughly and seriously biting you. Look up single kitten syndrome. Also strongly consider using paper pellets instead of clumping litter as some kittens eat it and need the vet.
Also the cost of the pet and startup is probably the least you’ll pay. Make sure to budget for at least one or two vet visits each year, more for seniors. I have no idea about pet insurance.
Just some tips in case you’re not experienced with cats -
Steer clear of supermarket brand flea and worm stuff or flea collars. The collars contain pyrethrins and the shonky flea drops can be contaminated with it too, it’s toxic to cats. Choose a good brand from the pet shop or the vet (by cat’s weight). Never use a dog flea product on a cat for the same reason, it will make your cat very sick or they can die.
Look up signs of pain in cats and know how to spot a uti or blocked bladder (especially in male cats).
It’s a very good idea to feed a lot of wet food (even if it’s cheap wet food and you also use dry) and also stir some hot water from the kettle into the wet food to a lukewarm temperature - this warms it up if the rest of the can was in the fridge but more importantly it gets your cat to hydrate more.
Also while this may be controversial I don’t think Hills or Royal Canin are good food. Vets and shelters will push them but they’re full of cereal filler and very expensive for what it is.
Also if your cat starts getting the runs and stomach aches with everything else ruled out, know that cats can become allergic to frequently eaten proteins. For my cat it was chicken.
Finally don’t overspend too much on toys at first, not every cat likes every toy. Some cats get up high to feel safe, others might want a hidey hole or a box. Definitely get a scratching post and/or cat tree. And some cats prefer scratching horizontally, so a piece of cardboard on the floor is great.
Glad it wasn’t too much! I tend to infodump accidentally but sometimes there’s important info that might not usually come up or something I wish I had known.
In rescues there are definitely adult cats that prefer or need to be the only pet so that can very much be ok! And by adult age (unless there have been major issues) they’re past the kitten socialisation phase and will usually have learned how to behave well. The good rescues get to know a cat’s personality and work out what kind of home/lifestyle would suit them best, so if you prefer one cat they could help you find a cat that doesn’t really need to be in a pair.
Seniors are definitely a bit of a financial commitment so it’s ok and good that you recognise that! Adult cats are probably the easiest option - at least that’s what I’ve found from experience.
Ps. The supermarket dry foods aren’t great so a pet shop might be able to advise you on a good nutritionally complete dry food - but the Woolies homebrand canned food and paper litter (Smitten) are fairly decent for the price. I don’t know how great the salt and ash content is but the Smitten tins have added taurine (which cats bodies need but can’t make) and meet AAFCO standards.
Unless I run into an issue with it and have to post otherwise, or unexpected issues develop for your cat, I’d say that tinned food goes alright on a budget.
You definitely don’t need to be paying prescription food prices unless there’s a genuine medical need. (ie. Kidney disease requiring it.)
I don’t mind spending a bit to try out different foods and see what the cat likes as I will be splitting bills with my housemate. We’re both adopting the cat together (ownership undecided, because we both equally want to adopt. Hopefully we can figure it out down the line, or get another cat and we can take it from there!
Seniors are quite expensive in terms of vet bills so definitely factor in costs. But they’re often chill easygoing lovebugs that will cuddle. If you can afford it and know how to recognise when they need vet care they’re amazing pets.
With adults their personalities are already developed so you can have an idea of who you’re adopting (though they may not shine while stressed in a shelter).
With kittens you will need two, otherwise you’ll have a crazy bored destructive animal that doesn’t properly know how to behave, ie. playing too roughly and seriously biting you. Look up single kitten syndrome. Also strongly consider using paper pellets instead of clumping litter as some kittens eat it and need the vet.
Also the cost of the pet and startup is probably the least you’ll pay. Make sure to budget for at least one or two vet visits each year, more for seniors. I have no idea about pet insurance.
Just some tips in case you’re not experienced with cats -
Steer clear of supermarket brand flea and worm stuff or flea collars. The collars contain pyrethrins and the shonky flea drops can be contaminated with it too, it’s toxic to cats. Choose a good brand from the pet shop or the vet (by cat’s weight). Never use a dog flea product on a cat for the same reason, it will make your cat very sick or they can die.
Look up signs of pain in cats and know how to spot a uti or blocked bladder (especially in male cats).
It’s a very good idea to feed a lot of wet food (even if it’s cheap wet food and you also use dry) and also stir some hot water from the kettle into the wet food to a lukewarm temperature - this warms it up if the rest of the can was in the fridge but more importantly it gets your cat to hydrate more.
Also while this may be controversial I don’t think Hills or Royal Canin are good food. Vets and shelters will push them but they’re full of cereal filler and very expensive for what it is.
Also if your cat starts getting the runs and stomach aches with everything else ruled out, know that cats can become allergic to frequently eaten proteins. For my cat it was chicken.
Finally don’t overspend too much on toys at first, not every cat likes every toy. Some cats get up high to feel safe, others might want a hidey hole or a box. Definitely get a scratching post and/or cat tree. And some cats prefer scratching horizontally, so a piece of cardboard on the floor is great.
This is all incredibly helpful. I thought about messaging you so thank you!!
About your point on the single kitten syndrome, does this also apply to a single adult? Say 2years or older.
I might not go for an adult cat because I don’t think I’ll be able to provide the care it might require and also finances permitting.
Glad it wasn’t too much! I tend to infodump accidentally but sometimes there’s important info that might not usually come up or something I wish I had known.
In rescues there are definitely adult cats that prefer or need to be the only pet so that can very much be ok! And by adult age (unless there have been major issues) they’re past the kitten socialisation phase and will usually have learned how to behave well. The good rescues get to know a cat’s personality and work out what kind of home/lifestyle would suit them best, so if you prefer one cat they could help you find a cat that doesn’t really need to be in a pair.
Seniors are definitely a bit of a financial commitment so it’s ok and good that you recognise that! Adult cats are probably the easiest option - at least that’s what I’ve found from experience.
Ps. The supermarket dry foods aren’t great so a pet shop might be able to advise you on a good nutritionally complete dry food - but the Woolies homebrand canned food and paper litter (Smitten) are fairly decent for the price. I don’t know how great the salt and ash content is but the Smitten tins have added taurine (which cats bodies need but can’t make) and meet AAFCO standards.
Unless I run into an issue with it and have to post otherwise, or unexpected issues develop for your cat, I’d say that tinned food goes alright on a budget.
You definitely don’t need to be paying prescription food prices unless there’s a genuine medical need. (ie. Kidney disease requiring it.)
I don’t mind spending a bit to try out different foods and see what the cat likes as I will be splitting bills with my housemate. We’re both adopting the cat together (ownership undecided, because we both equally want to adopt. Hopefully we can figure it out down the line, or get another cat and we can take it from there!
Best of luck! And yeah it really depends on what the cat likes too. Some love gravy, some love pate, some want fish… they will let you know!